Your Septic System Specialists
Presby Systems or Enviro-Systems
OK seems there is a LOT of talk about these systems in Southern IN these days. These are NOT a miracle cure system they are just another type of system available in Indiana.
What bothers me the most on these systems is the way they are being sold/installed,,,
just remember this,,,
A smaller system (takes less space) is JUST THAT,,, a SMALLER SYSTEM !!!
If there is one thing EVERYONE should know about septic systems it is,,,
SMALLER IS IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM BETTER !!
Your best bet is the LARGEST system you can fit on your lot and put the smallest amount of waste water through the thing.
We are a Certified installer for these systems but have yet to come across a site we feel it is best for. The only way I could see using one is when a Mound is needed and it is downhill from the home you can save some money by not needing a pump. In a true mound system you ALWAYS need a pump. I m still not sure I would make this choice though if it were my system.
Overall nothing has impressed me about these systems to date but if you want to stick one in I m game,, we ll see what happens together.
If you are tight on space and worried about a system working/lasting then install an RGF between the Septic Tank and Field Bed, this should reduce your BOD to less than 10 mg/l
(click BOD for Wikipedia). Here is a PDF on BOD from Purdue
OK seems there is a LOT of talk about these systems in Southern IN these days. These are NOT a miracle cure system they are just another type of system available in Indiana.
What bothers me the most on these systems is the way they are being sold/installed,,,
just remember this,,,
A smaller system (takes less space) is JUST THAT,,, a SMALLER SYSTEM !!!
If there is one thing EVERYONE should know about septic systems it is,,,
SMALLER IS IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM BETTER !!
Your best bet is the LARGEST system you can fit on your lot and put the smallest amount of waste water through the thing.
We are a Certified installer for these systems but have yet to come across a site we feel it is best for. The only way I could see using one is when a Mound is needed and it is downhill from the home you can save some money by not needing a pump. In a true mound system you ALWAYS need a pump. I m still not sure I would make this choice though if it were my system.
Overall nothing has impressed me about these systems to date but if you want to stick one in I m game,, we ll see what happens together.
If you are tight on space and worried about a system working/lasting then install an RGF between the Septic Tank and Field Bed, this should reduce your BOD to less than 10 mg/l
(click BOD for Wikipedia). Here is a PDF on BOD from Purdue
Constructed Wetlands
(bunch of gravel in a pit with swamp plants in it that live off your sewage)
These systems are Supposed to be supervised by ISDH (the county can not approve these on their own) if they are not supervised by ISDH you could be held accountable for replacing it at your expense so keep this in mind.
That being said,, a 3 bedroom home will need about 20' x 30' wetland area for proper sizing. With our 46" annual rainfall this adds about 17,000 gallons of water to your field bed each year. This happens simply by the rain falling into the Wetland and then being funneled into the field bed. Keep in mind that same rain fell all over your field bed too. Not good math in my book.
17,000 gallons,, WOW that is a LOT of water, how much water do you use in a month? Probably less than 7000 gallons. The best part is our wet season is when the plants are pretty much dormant so no evapotranspiration takes place. Evapotranspiration is water evaporating from the plants which pretty much stops @ 70 degrees. Only about 16 inches of rain falls in the months of June through October and October is a already a slow month for rain to evaporate. This means the other 30 inches of rain happens over winter and early spring, not good months for evaporation either.
In 2006 we had OVER 70 INCHES of rain WOW!! 26,000 gallons of rain water into the field bed,,, bet that helped.
I am NOT a fan of Constructed Wetlands and can NOT recommend anyone install one
(unless you put a glass roof over it, then it would be GREAT)
Nobody can FORCE you to install this system, if you feel you are being pressured just read below.
(bunch of gravel in a pit with swamp plants in it that live off your sewage)
These systems are Supposed to be supervised by ISDH (the county can not approve these on their own) if they are not supervised by ISDH you could be held accountable for replacing it at your expense so keep this in mind.
That being said,, a 3 bedroom home will need about 20' x 30' wetland area for proper sizing. With our 46" annual rainfall this adds about 17,000 gallons of water to your field bed each year. This happens simply by the rain falling into the Wetland and then being funneled into the field bed. Keep in mind that same rain fell all over your field bed too. Not good math in my book.
17,000 gallons,, WOW that is a LOT of water, how much water do you use in a month? Probably less than 7000 gallons. The best part is our wet season is when the plants are pretty much dormant so no evapotranspiration takes place. Evapotranspiration is water evaporating from the plants which pretty much stops @ 70 degrees. Only about 16 inches of rain falls in the months of June through October and October is a already a slow month for rain to evaporate. This means the other 30 inches of rain happens over winter and early spring, not good months for evaporation either.
In 2006 we had OVER 70 INCHES of rain WOW!! 26,000 gallons of rain water into the field bed,,, bet that helped.
I am NOT a fan of Constructed Wetlands and can NOT recommend anyone install one
(unless you put a glass roof over it, then it would be GREAT)
Nobody can FORCE you to install this system, if you feel you are being pressured just read below.
Recirculating Media Filter with Drip Irrigation
Sounds complicated,,,,and it is complicated
to the point that only a few people in the state are competent enough to do it.
So why do I want a system like this you may ask ???
This system can in many cases replace a Mound
This system may be the ONLY option for
your home due to space or other complications.
Probably the best reason for wanting one is the fact that this system will out perform ANYTHING!!
YES they are complicated; YES they are expensive for a smaller home, but equal out in 4 to 5 bedroom homes.
The RMF is a secondary treatment unit; when effluent makes multiple passes through the media, organisms that live on the media feed on the effluent.
This process creates very clear odorless effluent.
This High Quality effluent is then pumped into Drip Tubing; this 5/8" diameter tubing is put into the soil with a specially designed plow. There are emitters every 2 feet, the length of the tube, and the tubing is installed on 2-foot centers. The tubing is only installed about 8 inches deep.
As the soil finishes the treatment process, your lawn gets valuable irrigation, and the excess water will find it s way down into the subsoil and back to the ground water.
An elaborate electrical panel and 2 pumps control this whole process. These systems have proven to be VERY reliable and have low maintenance costs.
A Perimeter Drain or Curtain Drain will lower your seasonal water table and is frequently required on your system.
Click here for more info.
Sounds complicated,,,,and it is complicated
to the point that only a few people in the state are competent enough to do it.
So why do I want a system like this you may ask ???
This system can in many cases replace a Mound
This system may be the ONLY option for
your home due to space or other complications.
Probably the best reason for wanting one is the fact that this system will out perform ANYTHING!!
YES they are complicated; YES they are expensive for a smaller home, but equal out in 4 to 5 bedroom homes.
The RMF is a secondary treatment unit; when effluent makes multiple passes through the media, organisms that live on the media feed on the effluent.
This process creates very clear odorless effluent.
This High Quality effluent is then pumped into Drip Tubing; this 5/8" diameter tubing is put into the soil with a specially designed plow. There are emitters every 2 feet, the length of the tube, and the tubing is installed on 2-foot centers. The tubing is only installed about 8 inches deep.
As the soil finishes the treatment process, your lawn gets valuable irrigation, and the excess water will find it s way down into the subsoil and back to the ground water.
An elaborate electrical panel and 2 pumps control this whole process. These systems have proven to be VERY reliable and have low maintenance costs.
A Perimeter Drain or Curtain Drain will lower your seasonal water table and is frequently required on your system.
Click here for more info.
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
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